Ischia.....Most people cannot even pronounce it, let alone find it on a map............

During our summer travels we planned on spending a week in Sicily. It is one of our usual places and we were staying at the Villa Sant Andrea. We have been there many times before. We don’t know what happened this year, but the place just fell apart. We decided to cut our losses and see if we could get into our next hotel four days early. We called the Mezzatorre Resort and Spa in Ischia. They said our room was available, so we did a quick pack, changed our tickets to fly to Naples from Catania, and hired a private boat to take us from Naples airport to the dock at the hotel. We made this decision and reservations in about 30 minutes. When these things happen, we move as fast as possible. It was a great little speed boat that took us directly to the hotel. It made a two and a half hour journey into an under an hour journey. The hotel rose majestically above the cove. We arrived at the dock and from there we kept going up. There were chaise lounges with umbrellas on different levels, overlooking the sea. Then we got to the pool and the restaurant. It is a stunning setting, all overlooking the Mediterranean. The paths led us up to the castle. Our suite was in the castle tower. We had a magnificent castle lobby and our room was on the top. As Richard Gere said in Pretty Woman “it’s the best”, and our sea-view terrace was large enough for a party. One day we even took advantage of it and sunned nude and dined al fresco.......the best paninis ever along with hand cut french fries.

Our room was newly done and lofty. Great, functional, well lit closets. Lovely white sofas. Separate but open area for bedroom. And the bathroom was behind the bedroom. Huge glass enclosed shower. Pressure was a dribble. One huge sink opposite with two faucets. Not the most functional. Four inches of vanity on each side. Not at all functional. Pocket doors. Then another set of pocket doors in glass separated the bathtub area, with a handheld shower with amazing pressure. Also in that room was the toilet and the bidet. Lots of towels. Etro. The towel heater actually worked. Products were ok. (See castle lobby below.)

The first night we went for drinks under the sky. There was a pianist playing on the terrace nightly. We were told “We do not have fresh grapefruit juice, but give me five minutes and I will squeeze it for you”. Massimo was delightful and we enjoyed this little ceremony each evening. This was August. The nights were chilly. I needed a tablecloth as a shawl one evening. The first night we dined at the hotel’s almost gastronomic restaurant. Gastronomic is not our style, but the food and the service were excellent. The next morning we went to breakfast. It was fair and something that can be missed, so we passed daily, although it was included in the room rate (which was quite pricey). We spent the day at the pool reading. Most of the people were reading. A very good sign. All Europeans (as you can tell by the books in a variety of languages). No Americans. We lunched at the pool restaurant that day as our plans to go to a “beach club” went awry. When we finally did get to a beach club there was just no beach, but it was a superior day and venue (see photo).

So, while we were at the airport waiting for our Easyjet (which was anything but) flight from Catania, Sicily to Naples, we met a couple. We were all complaining about having to fly this stinky airline to Naples (but it was the only direct flight) and it was delayed and it was so no frills that the glass of water I requested came from a tap. I stayed thirsty. They were traveling to Amalfi. We were going to Ischia. We said we would stay in touch. Two days later, they rented a boat to come to Mezzatorre to have lunch with us. That was another day we were supposed to go to a beach club, but we had an amazing and boozey lunch at the hotel. The food and service were over the top. The four of us ate and drank for about 3 hours and there was never a lull in the conversation. It was great fun meeting new friends who went so out of their way to spend a day with us. We continue to talk a few times a week.

Although we were too full to have dinner, that night we went to the town of Forio. It was one long street with shops and cafes and bars and ice cream and ice cream and ice cream. It was lovely and so Italian. Very Under the Tuscan Sun. One night we had an incredible dinner at Peppina di Renato. Family owned restaurant....... ....very rustic......charming......dined on the terrace.......very local $28 red wine......and fabulous. One day we we took a ride to a town called Sant' Angelo. We could have passed that town, but we had heard good things. All trips were via taxi and we retained one driver for our entire stay. One day we went to the town of Ischia Porto. Each town had a bit of a different flavor. The people strolled in the evenings. The kids hung in the streets in hordes. The day we finally made it to the beach was a club called Giardino Eden. Our taxi deposited us on the road and we had to walk down over 100 stone stairs to the club and the restaurant and the sea. (For our return trip, we had made plans to meet the taxi at a pick up point where the water taxi left us. That was to avoid the somewhat dangerous and steep climb back up to the road.) But guess what?! Chaise lounges on rocks. There was no beach. They had a quality restaurant and the service was right on. The view was magnificent. I think Ischia was beautiful. Wherever we went, wherever we looked...........it was a sensory blessing. On our last night in Ischia we had a fabulous meal high in the mountains at Focolare. It was a solid 30 minutes drive from the hotel. It was well worth the trip. My husband tried rabbit, which is the traditional food of the island. I had two amazing pastas. Our taxi driver, Luigi Verde (great name), was always waiting to take us back to the hotel. We hope we helped make his season as he helped make our trip. Mezzatorre had a spa and thermal baths, something else Ischia is known for. My husband loved them. I tried a few of them but they were too hot for me. I had a great manicure. The spa was very well done and service was quite good. The hotel pool was magnificent and I actually used it. I was dying to swim in the sea off the hotel docks and I did that too. Ischia is very far and difficult to get to. The word is isolated. Maybe that is how it keeps its charm........by being so secluded. I was dreading the return trip to Rome airport. It was 30 minutes from the hotel to the ferry to Naples. The ferry ride to Naples was 90 minutes. The drive time from the Naples ferry to Fiumicino Airport in Rome was another 3 hours and 30 minutes. So you have to figure at least 6 hours........and then arrive 2 hours before flight time. We would have had to leave at the crack of dawn. Good thing my husband is a terrible traveler. The heli-port was 10 minutes from the hotel and the helicopter flight to Fiumicino was an hour. We did have a leisurely breakfast at the hotel that morning.