The Costa del Sol and The Marbella Club

When I was 19 and I was traveling with a friend throughout Europe, we went to Marbella sometime during our journey. That was the last time that I was on the Costa del Sol. Through all the years of traveling and to wonderful vacation spots, I never had a desire to return to the south of Spain. This year we decided we needed something different. So six months ago we booked the Marbella Club for the family for a week. After that week everyone was going in separate directions. I didn’t have any high hopes. I thought it would be a place where we could all be together. It was on the beach. It is a city. But we kind of flew by the seat of our pants, something we don’t normally do. Initially, I did not like the hotel. Why? It was new territory to us.

Initially, I did not like the Marbella. Why? We knew nothing about it and the concierge was zero help. I’m starting to see a pattern where by whenever we arrive at someplace new, no matter how magnificent, I initially do not like it. The hotel is old world. It was opened over 60 years ago and has been a functioning hotel under the same management all these years. It is a little enclave in the middle of Marbella. Needless to say, after all these years, the grounds are beautifully groomed and the trees are quite large and old growth. The check in was a breeze and efficiently completed. The weak link was the concierge desk, but we will get to that later. Instead, say hello to my children and the Internet. What we found was totally worth finding and worth returning to.

First of all, there is a promenade that runs all along the Marbella seafront. (We arrived at the hotel before 8 AM and we had reserved a room for the previous night for everyone to relax in. I requested that they put two rollaway’s in and four out of the six of us climbed into bed and passed out in the dark cold room.) My son asked me if I would like to take a walk. I’m always up for a walk so we decided to scout out the area. We began on the promenade. It was exhilarating. It was early. People were running, walking, strolling, walking their pets, bicycle riding, riding segways. The color of the sky was a perfect blue. The breeze from the sea was intoxicating. The promenade was a soil base and it ran on forever along the sea. There were shops and restaurants along the opposite side. We decided to head towards the old town. The only shops open along our 60 minute walk east were cafés. Everything else was still asleep. It felt so good after being cooped up on a plane for eight hours and all the traveling that came before and after to get to our destination. We walked and walked, at a good pace, until we exited the promenade, and entered the old town. We ended up at the church, always the center of the town and it was the only thing showing any signs of life. We were now 90 minutes from the hotel and we decided to head back. There were now more people along the promenade but still it was glorious. It is nice to see a culture that values exercise. In general, the men, more than the women, are in very good shape. We got back to the hotel at a very quick pace because breakfast ended at 11 and we were starving. It was worth the almost run. The buffet was very well done with platters of individual fruits, various breads, croissants, pain et chocolate, multi grains, an egg and omelette station, a fresh juice station (willing to prepare whatever you requested...... I opted for celery, parsley, cucumber, ginger, and broccoli juice to begin my day). There was a yogurt station with all kinds of yogurts, some freshly made. There were blueberries and strawberries and blackberries and raspberries. Each was picture perfect. I would have taken a photo but I was busy stuffing my face. There was a freshly squeezed orange juice station and a grapefruit juice station, and lemon water and cucumber water. There was a station with a huge selection of meats and cheeses and Scottish salmon and all of the accouterments. There was a beautiful honeycomb dripping fresh honey (for my fresh yogurt). The patio was shaded by very old trees and umbrellas. White tablecloths, linen napkins, and iced lattes completed my morning meal. At most hotels I don’t even bother going to breakfast. This was special. We made use of its offerings daily.

The other two rooms were ready for us by noon. By 1 PM we were unpacked and on the beach. My children’s rooms were two large junior suites with terraces, with the option to connect. We had been told that they had been redone. NOT. They were nondescript and not fresh. The decor was bordering on ugly. (They did redo the parking lot and the little kid's club.) The rooms were expensive. My children’s rooms were $1400 per room per day and my room was $1800 per day. Very expensive for Spain and also considering the “decor” and the condition in which they were offered. Bathrooms definitely needed an update. They were decent and old. The stall showers were small. The bidet was a perfect Villeroy and Boch model. The faucets were great, meaning that the slightest touch left or right brought you hot or cold. The water pressure was intense. The bathroom linens needed to be replaced. They were a bit on the ratty side. If they want help, I know someone who works for FRETTE hotel line linens. Our room was over looking the promenade and the beach. We were in a great location with a huge Terrace. My kids were near the center of the resort closer to the pool and breakfast. We were a four minute walk from each other. At check-in we spoke to the concierge about the beach. He told us it was ugly. Not a good way to start. He was wrong. He recommended MC Beach Club for lunch. He was wrong again. The service was absurdly slow. The food was less than fair. Three dishes had to be sent back as they were inedible. The concierge also rented a car for us. We were to collect it at the hotel. The key was to be left with the concierge. All was confirmed via email. On day two we went to the concierge to pick up the car key. They had no idea what we were talking about. At that point we were not at all surprised. We taxied to town for dinner. It is very difficult to taxi around Marbella. They taxis are not reliable or abundant. They are impossible to get. We survived. The next morning my daughter went and rented a BMW for six people at half the price that the hotel had asked for. And since we were all on different schedules, she was able to take the car and return it at the airport in Malaga. You must have a car in Marbella. They were also unable to recommend any great restaurants. They had no tips and they could not secure any reservations that we had requested. So we handled everything ourselves. End of story, the concierge is a loser. I don’t mean “A” particular concierge. I mean the concierge desk as a whole. We found our way around Marbella with ease. We lunched twice at the Ocean Club. One day we stayed there for a big DJ beach party. One day we went to Nikki Beach for the lunch and party. Nikki Beach’s lunch was perfect and the music was bumping. Another day we had lunch at Villa Padierna Club. Food was very good. Our lunches usually ran from 2:30 or 3 until 5 or 5:30, unless we partook in the “party”, and then it just kept going. The boys played golf at the Marbella Club Golf. They said it was quite challenging, beautiful and very enjoyable. We had a wonderful French dinner one night in the old town at a restaurant called Casanis. Worth another trip. (This was the night with the taxi debacle.) Puerto Banus, along the harbor, is for top names in shopping. Name it and it was there. It is a walking area. There are a handful of cafes and restaurants also. We had dinner twice at Los Banditos, which was there. Food was great. Wine was great. Service was great. We had drinks at the hotel in the evenings before going out. Miguel was the bartender and he made up for the shoddy concierge service. It was a magnificent setting. We had massages on the beach, which were incredible. His name was Miroslav. If you go, book him. The beach was glorious. We sat out after breakfast (at noon) until we left for lunch, and then again each day from 6 PM until 8:30 PM. The breeze was perfect. The sun was still hot but not uncomfortable. It was quiet. The beach service was decent. The sand was dark. It was mixed with soil blown over from Africa and it was very hot to walk on during the day, so the hotel had walkways made of sisal. Very, very smart. There was a pier, which jutted out into the sea. It belonged to the hotel. The pier had lounges on it and it went approximately 80 feet out into and over the sea. That was totally enchanting. The weather the entire trip was 80 degrees and no humidity. Such a joy. All in all, I would return to this hotel in a heartbeat. My family agrees. And we will. Sooner than later.